华丽诡异的忧伤——威尼斯面具精选








































































王公贵族们戴上夸张的面具,穿着华丽的复古装束,聚在河边或者乘船夜游。面具掩盖了大家的真实身份,所以人们可以毫无顾忌,恣意狂欢。整晚的音乐,整晚的欢庆。这是一场不散的夜宴。狂欢节的习俗最初起源于那些喜欢隐姓埋名到赌场厮混的威尼斯贵族。后来演变成为欧洲最具有异国情调,多姿多彩的节日。
威尼斯人把面具作为日常生活的一部分有着悠久的历史,虽然人们从不知道威尼斯人具体是何年开始戴面具的,但却知道早在公元13世纪,就有法律规范面具的使用。在18世纪之前,法律允许威尼斯人在一年中的大部分时间里戴着面具和工作和生活。具体说来是从每年的10月5日起到第二年的6月10止——长达8个月。至于10余天的嘉年华狂欢节和40天的四旬斋更是面具不离身。 威尼斯的面具文化在欧洲文明中独具一格,是极少数面具溶入日常生活的城市。18世纪以前,威尼斯居民生活完全离不开面具,人们外出,不论男女,都要戴上面具,披上斗篷,这专属于威尼斯的面具就是那有名的“包塔”(Bauta)。
诗人拜伦曾说:“忘不了威尼斯曾有的风采:欢愉最盛的乐土,人们最畅的酣饮,意大利至尊的化装舞会.”
“面具风”起源很早,在西元1268年便出现禁止穿戴面具的官方文件(当时穿戴面具者多为落难贵族及避债的赌徒,且戴面具进入教会有损教会尊严,故加以禁止之.),可见面具的普遍.
十六世纪,身著斗篷,面具的造型依然未获准.
拿破仑挥兵南下,征服了威尼斯,瓦解了残喘多世纪的“面具客”,从此面具客销声匿迹,直到西元1979年的现代嘉年华才再度复活. 对位於阿尔卑斯山南麓的意大利而言,意大利的面具代表的是虚掩,矫饰的另类性格.
面具如今成了威尼斯狂欢节的象征,威尼斯面具嘉年华,每年举办的日期都不尽相同,大致上会在圣灰星期三,前10天举行,大约是每年隆冬末尾的二月天. 在嘉年华的最后一天,威尼斯政府将於大运河的出海口释放烟火,璀璨的烟火为整个为期12天的嘉年华划上了个迷人的删节号,众人共同迎接四旬斋(Lent) 的到来,共同期望明年的嘉年华. 在为期12天的嘉年华中,重点不是狂欢喝彩,载歌载舞,而是一副副那精巧且细致的面具.